While function is great, we also like cash. A super trick long-travel suspension setup might be extremely functional, but if your rig rarely ventures into the dirt then it’s not worth the investment. In this case, we’d rather have some extra Benjamins in our bank account and go with something more basic. Sure, we might not look as cool as the guy with the high-zoot suspension system on his ride, but we can afford to buy food, pay a mortgage, and possibly send our kids to college.
With so many suspension and shock options out there, it can all get pretty confusing. Do you really need bypass shocks at every corner? Do you need air bumps? How much money should you spend, and how much function do you really need? Don’t freak out; we are here to help. Following are the many different suspension options available. We’ll explain what will work best for your intended use. In the end, we might save you some serious cash. You can thank us later, or feel free to send us a check. Either way, our best advice is to sit down and take an honest look at how you’ll use your vehicle. Then you can build it accordingly.
A step up from a basic leveling kit is a new strut assembly with rear shocks. This setup sits in between a basic leveling kit and a full-blown coilover in both capability and price. By replacing the factory strut and using better shocks, both springs rates and damping capability can be increased. The amount of lift is usually about the same as a leveling kit (2-3 inches), but the extra damping helps on rougher roads. If you plan on doing more than the occasional dirt road and are looking for more control in the dirt, they are worth the extra cost.
Coilovers, such as these Bilstein units, sit towards the very top of the IFS suspension food chain. They are a significant step up in both price and capability over the other previous options. But they use much bigger shock bodies (usually 2 to 2.5 inches in diameter) and more robust construction with billet pieces, spherical bearings, and threaded, aluminum bodies. Using a larger body gives a big increase in oil capacity. This means you can beat on coilovers longer and harder without worrying about fade. The increase in diameter also allows for a bigger piston and valving stack for more compression and rebound damping. Are they worth the extra coin? For those using their trucks harder in the dirt and looking for the ultimate in control, the answer is yes.
Another common suspension upgrade is a new upper A-arm. If your truck already has one from the factory, why do you need to replace it? Honestly, you necessarily have to. But they do help get every inch of travel available out of a front suspension (especially with extended travel coilovers). Factory upper arms use ball joints offering fairly limited amounts of deflection. This means that as the suspension reaches the end of its cycle, there is potential for bind. Aftermarket arms use spherical bearings that have greater angles of deflection to eliminate bind. They are also stronger than factory arms and can come with built-in caster. However, if you’re beating on your truck hard enough to break an upper A-arm, you probably need better driving skills.
We’ve talked about coilovers, struts, and leveling kits, but most of those usually supply around 2-3 inches of lift. If you want to run a bigger tire, such as 35s or 37s, you’ll need to go with a bigger lift (around 6 inches for most modern trucks). These lifts are more complicated to install and usually don’t net any additional wheel travel. However, they’re the only way to make enough room for really big tires. If you plan to take you your truck into the dirt, our advice would be to couple that lift with whatever upgraded shocks are available. They will offer more control when you hit the dirt.
Even one more step above coilovers are internal bypass shocks like these ARB BP-51s. Why are they a big deal? Bypass shocks use small tubes that allow some of the shock fluid to bypass the piston and valving stack changing the shock valving from being velocity based to position sensitive. Okay, so what the hell does that mean? Valving in conventional shocks is always a compromise between soft and firm as it is based on the velocity of the shock shaft. But with the right positioning of the tubes, a bypass shock can give a nice, plush ride on the little chatter and bumps often found on dirt roads, while still providing enough compression to easily absorb bigger hits. There are no compromises with bypass shocks.
Some people spend lots of money on a quality set of coilovers in the front, but then cheap out when it comes to the rear suspension. That is a surefire setup for an ill-working suspension. Basic shocks will work for the highway, but in the dirt you’ll want to upgrade to a higher quality shock. If you plan on using your vehicle harder in the dirt, a reservoir shock will aid in cooling to keep fade away.
We have talked a lot about front suspension, but the rear plays just as important a role. The best performance is going to come out of custom-made leaf springs for your application, but it is also the most expensive. The cheapest way to get lift in the rear is to add a block. However, the taller the block, the more potential for axle wrap in the dirt. If you stick to pavement, that isn’t a concern, but others will want to minimize the size of blocks by using an additional leaf in their springs or a replacement spring with the smallest block possible. Remember, springs with a lot of arch don’t ride well, so avoid heavily-arched springs. Don’t be surprised if your super jacked up leaf-sprung brodozer rides like a garbage truck.
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